A weekend in Antequera
RIDING THE HORSES OF HISTORY
The Romans, not a very patient and conciliating race according to history, must have been rather cheesed off to find that this extraordinary fertile valley had been claimed and occupied well before their time. The Phoenicians, the Visigoths and any other odd Goths roaming the planet had been there and had exploited the richness of the site. But none of its occupying hordes had given it a name.
Being Romans, they first built baths still to be seen today (at least the foundations). There must have been something definitely rotten in the Roman Empire. Or may be it was the way they ate and performed their human functions but it is strange that the first thing they did anywhere they annexed was to make sure there was a washing facility. Then of course having discovered that this settlement was at convenient distances from Malaga, Seville and Cordoba they built roads and tamed the ebullient rivers through well lined-up aqueducts.
A fat kneed commander of the residing legion must have seen the necessity of giving this pearl of Spain a name. As it was obviously not virgin land the place was named "Antiquaria". The Old One.
Then, of course, the place was later in the path of the invading Moors. They must have thought they had hit the jackpot. The place got fortified by a massive castle together with three rings of walls and battlements. From the top of the Homenage tower you can see forever. The Moors brought different agriculture including the almond tree and in its wake a host of sweet dishes that will cement your teeth together. The famous "Bienmensabe" pudding is only for people with their own natural healthy sweet teeth.
In 1410 the dream was over and the Christians reconquered Antiquaria as part and parcel of the vast ethnic purge of the Iberian Peninsula. Slightly hard after 800 years of supremacy and according to history a peaceful co-existence of Arabs, Jews and Christians. They seem to have been more civilised in those days.
Then came the baroque and extravagant area called the Golden Age of Antequera. Was it to thank God of their re-conquest of the town or was it to make sure of a seat in the first row of the paradise show or even to be forgiven for any atrocities committed during the upheaval? For whatever reasons the Christian grandees of the time spent fortunes building churches, convents, colleges and of course their own palaces. The extravagance of architecture and decoration sublimes the imagination. I can't help thinking of the many beggars at every of those fantastic doors pleading for a piece of bread whilst workers inside were applying GOLD leaf on all the pillars of the main altar…
The economy, thriving in the past centuries, reached dizzy heights. The almond made way for the olive and to this day the town is on the upward mobile scale.
Managed by a Town Hall conscious of its priceless cultural heritage and a few pushy councillors Antequera hits you on the head around every corner and down any alleyway. For once Brussels has done something sensible and is pouring millions of Euros in the coffers so every monument is in turn lovingly restored to its former glory. It always amazes me that artisans of such skills are to be found today. When they started on the restoration of the spire of the Convent of San Francisco the huge crane lifting the stones suddenly stopped for a few days. I enquired and was told that the stork chicks were just hatching in the huge nest on top of the spire. Work was delayed and eventually the nest was reinforced by a large metal basket to make it more secure during the ensuing work..
To get to Antequera is easy. From the North just get yourself on the E15 motorway towards Almeria and take the 516 exit to Sorbas, Tabernas and Guadix. It is a good road and you join the A92 motorway after the Mini-Hollywood shambles direction Guadix-Granada. From then on you don't leave the motorway. Follow the signs to Seville and if you have not stopped for any necessity you see the first Antequera sign after 3 hours drive if you started from Almeria. Do not take the first entry sign towards Antequera. It lingers through some asparagus fields and the road surface is rather rough. Take the second sign after passing a very odd double-humped hill called " Los Enamorados" (The Lovers). The legend has it that centuries ago a Christian girl and a Moorish boy fell madly in love and as such a union was impossible they both jumped, enlaced, from the top the highest hump. Youngsters will do such stupid things really. Didn't we?
Parking is a nightmare. In fact it is impossible. There are a couple of underground car parks but if it is your first time in Antequera you will not find them. The streets are from the days of the donkeys and on top of that some evil sod has thought of the most sadistic one way system. It is a walking town. Before we bought our house we used to park in the Parador parking and carry our bags through the public gardens, pass the beautiful bull ring, the elegant town entrance arch and hoofed it to our little pension in the main street that has no car parking facility. Cheeky but practical. We also had stayed quite a few times at the Parador so we felt that we were not abusing that much.
Where to stay:
Parador: It is a new building and rather minimalist in style. Euros 88 plus IVA for double. Tel: 952 84 02 61. All credit cards accepted.
Pension Colon: In the main street. Basic but cheap. Euros 35 for double with shower room. No restaurant or breakfast facilities. Plenty of bars and restaurants around. This was our home from home during our years of house hunting. No parking.
Tel: 952 84 00 10. Visa and MasterCard accepted.
Pension Toril: near the lovely covered market at the very centre of the old town. Lovely indoor patio and a good underground carpark. Euros 28 for double with bath.
No restaurant or breakfast facilities but it is in the very commercial area of town. Highly recommended. We discovered it too late. Tel: 952 84 31 84 (English spoken) No cards accepted.
Hotel Papabellotas: In the XVIth century square of Coso Viejo. Exquisitely furnished in traditional Spanish style. Traditional tapas bar. Parking possible in the square depending on luck. Euros 50 plus IVA for double with bath. High standard. Visa, MasterCard and Diners Club accepted. Tel: 952 705045 (English spoken)
What to do:
Go to the Tourist Information Office. From wherever you are find the main street called" Infante Don Fernando" and follow it Southwards (keep the castle tower in view) until you get to the beautiful square, the Plaza San Sebastian. The Tourist office will be in front of you. The girls speak any language you happen to be speaking and are very helpful. They will give you a map of the town and point out what you should concentrate on. It is easy to follow. All pamphlets come in whatever language you chose. From then on you start walking.
What to see:
The whole of Antequera is a huge complex of ancient monuments with priceless treasures inside. With the help of your map carry on walking, admiring and looking at your feet from time to time. The pavements have not come up on the EU list yet. Whilst admiring the steeples and spires of centuries ago you might miss a hole in the cobbles and find yourself in a very 21st century hospital in town. The map given by the Tourist Office gives you a choice of routes depending on your particular interests. Keep walking. Loose yourself in the maze of ancient streets and don't be shy to poke your heads through open old doors giving you a glance of Andalucian courtyards you have never seen anywhere else even in Cordoba. The Antequeranos are very proud of their town and will open their doors for you to admire.
I would not miss the Dolmens complex. Habitats and burials grounds from the megalithic area will blow your minds. It nearly blew ours when, after visiting the floodlight living rooms of those distant ancestors, we sat with wine, paper and pens and started calculating how many men were needed to bring those seven tons stones from Vera Cruz, a mere 14kms away. After reaching a fair estimate and the point where a hangover in the morning was a certainty we discovered that it tells you all at the back of the pamphlet. You will find out.
Each church and convent is a surprise but I would not miss the Iglesia del Carmen with its monumental wood-carved altar. If you are lucky the Remedios in the main street will be open and you will need sunglasses to look at the gold leaf altar and ceiling. The Santa Maria Colegiata has celebrated its 500th birthday this year. It was a great seat of learning in its day and has remained so. They use it as paintings/sculptures/ antiquarian books exhibition centre. It is situated within the first inner wall of the castle. Very good pub in front called the "Escribano". This is where the learned scribes used to make a living helping the illiterates.
The Palace of the Family Colarte in the square of Coso Viejo houses the municipal Museum. This is where the famous bronze statue of the "Efebo" can be seen. It was unearthed a few years ago by a farmer ploughing his field. It is of an adolescent boy of such perfect beauty that macabre ideas keep on passing through my head. What happened to the model?
Where to eat and drink:
There are many bars and restaurants but the following are our favourites. For a typical breakfast in a chaotic atmosphere that reminds me of a Paris brasserie "La Fuerza" in the main street near the entrance arch is a must. Try their hot chocolate and churros or a toasted "mollette" which is a very special bun made only in Antequera and dribble olive oil and salt. Magic.
For a drink at lunchtime the Florida, in the calle Lucena, offers some of the best tapas in town. Very busy place. You might have to stand up. The meson de Juan-Manuel is tucked away behind the San Augustine church in the main street. Very pleasant traditional décor with excellent vino de Competa by the glass and a good selection of tapas. For a quiet aperitif with the locals try the Ardave in calle Merecillas. Juan keeps an interesting selection of wines and serves superb ham and mature cheese as well as simple meals.
Manuel, at "El Gueno" just off the beautiful square of Fernandez Viaga near the covered market has the best chorizo in town. His wife, Marie, cooks for a small upstairs dining room and also makes lovely sticky sweets to take away.
There are numerous restaurants but our tried, tested and trusted favourite is "El Angelote" opposite corner from the Museum, in Coso Viejo square. Their fresh anchovies stuffed with spinach and deep-fried are delicious. Excellent house wines from local vineyards.
Antequera is a jewel in the heart of Andalucia waiting for your visit. In another article I shall lead you to the wonders waiting for you a few kilometres from the town.
Happy visiting!
JOCELYNE
